During pandemic, I was able to watch Dame Joanna Lumley’s Japan. It was a 3-part travel documentary about her travels from north to south of Japan. Part of her journey was when she hiked the trail of Nakasendo Way from Magome to Tsumago.

After I watched that travel show, I promised to myself that I will hike that trail too even I am not fit. So, here I was! For my 3rd time in Japan, I decided to visit the Kiso Valley.

Magome and Tsumago are part of the Gifu Prefecture. These postal towns are the most preserved places in the Old Nakasendo Way. These towns and passage were used during the Edo Period as a way from Kyoto to Tokyo. Literally, Nakasendo means in the middle of the mountain. So, imagine, if old Japanese are walking here just to bring their goods to places. It was incredible.

Magome to Tsumago is about 8 kilometers away. The trails between these towns are also the most marked trail in the Nakasendo Way as most signages are available.

How did I get there?

In Nakatsugawa, I had a quick lunch in the train station. Outside the station is the Tourism Office of Nakatsugawa. Since it was raining and I still have some free minutes before the bus arrived, I just stayed inside the Tourism Office. There were some tourist information pamphlets that you can read and everything was for free.

After some minutes, the bus to Magome arrived. The bus station is just in from the Nakatsugawa Station and the Tourism Office, so you can never gonna missed it. Busses also arrived in time. Here’s the bus timings that I got from the Tourism Office.

The bus only take cash. It took me 30 minutes to be in Magome.

Where did I stayed?

When the bus from Nakatsugawa arrived, I checked the the Tourism Office in Magome and I found out that my hostel is uphill. I had the instinct not to bring my luggage and just keep in a coin locker but since I do not know what will I wear, I bought my entire luggage. And the struggling happened. 😅😂🤣

I was not sure if I will pull or push my luggage but I do not have a choice. I climbed uphill while pulling my luggage. Though some parts of the road was cemented, it was still hard to pull my big luggage plus the rain was pouring. But in God’s grace, I was able to find my hostel after the 15 minutes uphill climb.😅🙏

I stayed in Magome Chaya for 2 nights. In my delight, I found out that the hostel caretaker was a Filipina! 😍😍😍 I knew I was in a good hand! Ate Jeng ensured that I got the best view of their hostel. Indeed, I got the best view! 🤩🤩🤩

Its just not the view, but Magome Chaya has the best food that I tasted in this trip! Their food was cooked well and very delicious! Their dinner and breakfast was superb! It’s not just me that felt that but all guests! Every night and morning before we eat, Ate Jeng explained the food that we will eat. The first time I ate their fish, I almost cried because its so oishi! 😋😋😋

There are two houses for the hostels. The first one was the reception and guest rooms. The second one, is where you can eat your food and guest rooms in the second floor. Ate Jeng also allowed me to have my own laundry. If you will stay here, bring cash as they do not accept cards yet.

Overall, I enjoyed my stay in Magome Chaya. I met new friends that eventually helped in the hike. I met Ate Jeng and her family. If you will stay here, I am sure you will never regret it! 💜

Magome to Tsumago Hike

After a nice and comfy first night in Magome Chaya, I had my breakfast and started to hike. It was almost 9 AM when I started. The sun was up and clear. No more rain! It was a perfect day to hike. 🌄

My dream to hike to Tsumago is slowly coming true. As I started to hike, there were some stairs and a bell. The bell can be rung to let bears stay away from the Nakasendo Way.

As I walk, there were some hikers who are alone and with companion. I met a Canadian family that was hiking with their children. I also met a Japanese woman who hiked alone same as me but she came back. We asked her why she came back. She told us that she was not sure if that is the right way to Tsumago. But then we assured her that it was the correct trail. After some explanation in Google Translate, she hiked again towards Tsumago. 😁

As for me, there were times that I catch my breath. But I told myself that I can walk on my own phase. No need to rush. There was no competition. I just enjoyed all the stairs and pavements that I walked in. The scenery was very beautiful that you will not let go of it. You just keep on going. 💪💪💪

There were sections of the trail that were full of snow. There were some that has full of grasses. During that time, I felt like I am walking in a different dimension, just feeling the entire beauty of Japan. The tall trees, running water and blue sky was my companion. 🌳💦☁️

I kept on checking the marks on how many kilometers I have walked. But I also get lost in tracking as I was enjoying the fresh air, lushes of greenery and just that moment. I waited for so long and all I can feel was gratefulness. 😇🙏😇

However, I may have enjoyed it too much. While walking in snow, I slipped! I was not able to stand for a moment. Grateful, there were hikers who helped me. They were so kind to help me out. I was able to continue the trail. From there, I kept my guard up.

Though before my hike, I researched about the weather and things to bring. I brought a hiking stick, a snow-grip slip-in for my shoes, my bag was packed with essentials too. All of these preparations, will not made me ready really. 😅 But then, I just went with the hiking trail. 💪

In another section, there was a wooden bridge that we need to cross. The wooden bridge was packed with melting snow so it was really slippery. Since it was hard to cross, some hikers including me queued there for some time, testing how we can cross it. So we decided to cross on the side with slippery wet soil, better than the snow. I panicked! 😫😵😫

I felt that my feet and knees was shaking. The other side of the bridge was a cliff. It will be better if there was no snow. But it was there that made it more challenging. While I panicked the other hikers guide me and told that I was doing fine and take it one step at a time. 😇🙏😇

I also had this heart to move forward just like what Joanna Lumley done when she was hiking the same trail. It was just never giving up on your dreams and goals. 💜

Alas! I crossed the bridge! What a relief! It was a terrifying moment for me. If there were no other hikers I might return to Magome or slide over the bridge. But Lord is good! He brought me angels! 🙏🙏🙏

After that snowy wooden bridge, the trail got clearer. The paths were more manageable to hike alone. Though there were some snow, uphill and slippery parts on the trail, I was blessed to walked and climbed it successfully. 🙏🙏🙏

By almost 1 PM, I reached Tsumago! 😍😍😍 I talked to myself and praying to God for the guidance and safety He brought for me. I was indeed, blessed that day! The sky was getting darker, just right in time to reach Tsumago.

Comparing to Magome, I found Tsumago more remote and authentic. Tsumago was another charm in Gifu Prefecture. It was a gem! While walking in Tsumago, I tried a red bean bun in a local shop. It was tasty! Perfect for the hike I made. 😋😋😋

After I explored Tsumago, I headed to the bus station going back to Magome. I found there the couple who helped me when I slipped and crossed the bridge. They were staying in Magome Chaya too. The woman’s name was Sam, a Filipina too, and he was with her Australian husband. We were both delighted to see each other after the hike.

From Tsumago, we rode the bus going back to Magome. It was a 30-minute ride. We were talking in the bus and just laugh at ourselves and just thinking that we just should ride the bus, but we hiked! 😂

The hike was tiring but after that as a responsible traveler, I need to do some laundry. 😅 I needed to wash the clothes I wore with some soil dirt due to the fall that happened. In my last night in Magome, I enjoyed their dinner. The breakfast on the next day was amazing too! Aside from the hike, the highlight of my travel in Magome is also my stay in Magome Chaya. 💜💜 Ate Jeng and her staff did an excellent job here. 💜💜

I remembered the joke that I and Sam had while in the bus returning to Magome. But I knew, deep inside of us, the hike was better and all worth it than the bus ride. Hiking from Magome to Tsumago was was of a kind experience for me. The entire trail let me realized not to give up and stay in faith. I am not fit or active traveller. I just know that wherever my heart desires, I will go there. 💜

But this one was different, it made me walked for almost 5 hours. The scenery I walked in was very much beautiful that I cannot trade it to a bus ride. It was one of my greatest achievement as solo traveler if I may say. With the help of others though, I was really grateful for this experience. It is the experience I know I will cherish in my heart forever. 💜

Dōmo arigatōgozaimasu, Magome and Tsumago! 💜💜💜

After my travel in Magome and Tsumago, I returned to Nagoya then to Tokyo. Follow my blog here! Safe travels! 💜